GURRRR ??

  After our lovely stay in Jaipur, Dan and I decided to take a detour from our scheduled itinerary to the railway town of Sawai Madhopur.  We were enticed by the possibility of seeing Bengal Tigers in one of their few remaining wild habitats.
We arrived in the town in the middle of the afternoon heat.  With the frustration of our train trip still residing and the hot afternoon sun beating down on us, we walked and searched for a place to stay for the night.  Needless to say, the tigers in this town are a huge draw for tourist, which translates to high costs for food and lodging.  After we checked out some prospects, we decided on a hotel and parked our things.  It was dirty, smelly, the toilet leaked ( a lot! ), power was minimal and the mosquitos were abundant.  On the bright side, we did practise our ninja stealth skills as we battled the mosquitos in an two day blood bath – we won :)
We booked ourselves a seat on a Canter ( a bus with no roof ) for the early morning safari.  While the sun still slept, we rubbed the sleep out of our eyes, stumbled into our clothes and waited for our tour guide to pick us up.  After picking up the remainder of the 19 total guests on our tour, we hit the park for our 7:00 am safari.
The Ranthambore National Park Reserve is an expansive, beautiful, lush park, with 5 trail options for both Gypsies ( Jeeps ) and Canters to tour around in hopes of seeing tigers, deer, wildcats, leopards, lizards and birds.  Trails are rotated and distributed to the drivers at random; ours received trail 2.  We set out on our three hour tour of the park and the ride was BUMPY.  It made it virtually impossible to take photos, but on the bright side, there would be no falling asleep on this ride :)  What can I say, the park was GLORIOUS.  It was a maze of beautiful trees ( most of which I have never seen ) grassy plains, cliffs, rivers and old crumbling forts!  Along with what Dan has named ‘ The Albino Puzzle Tree ‘, we also had the pleasure of seeing the second oldest Banyan tree in India- at 1000 years old!!  MAGNIFICENT.  I could have just curled up in it’s roots and lived there, perfectly happy for the rest of my life :)
Now, don’t get me wrong, the park and wildlife we did see (birds, deer and monkeys) were beautiful but we came to see tigers and the star of the show had yet to arrive :(  Huh- I forgot to mention one thing…….

When we arrived in the ( awful ) town of Sawai Madhopur we were greeted by every sort of tiger paraphernalia one could imagine.  There were tiger paintings, posters, tiger print everywhere and pretty much every establishment name had the word tiger in it!  Now, this kinda gives a person the impression that tiger sights are abundant- not the case :(  After our tour we were informed that they are actually very rare, a person could go on 10 safaris and never see one- lovely…
Now, we were fast approaching the end of our tour and we hadn’t seen a tiger, no one had, not a single vehicle we crossed paths with looked hopeful.  Now, I’m a fairly positive person, but my bubble was burst.  What a waste of time and money for the detour we had made to see these stupid illusive creatures :(
Then, peaking out from the trees- we saw something!!  A TIGER!!!  He was BEAUTIFUL, MAGESTIC, REGAL and sooooo close.  As Dan put it ‘ he was so close, he could have bitten off my head!’  We followed him as he- in perfect cat fashion, strolled onto the path, found a tree, sprayed it and squatted right in front of our cantor.  Have you ever seen a tiger take a crap in the wild? – we have :)  Then we spent the next few minutes watching him, in all his glory, make his way back up the ridge from where he came!!  BRILLIANT!  Now, in my excitement, I didn’t capture many photos but Dan did record a super bad ass video, which we will try to post at a later date.
The experience was a once in a lifetime opportunity I won’t soon forget.  We were the only vehicle to see a tiger that day, actually we were the celebrity white folks that ‘ saw tiger ‘.  I don’t know about you but I think that is pretty good luck ;)  Thank you tiger!  You are beautiful and brilliant!!

Some Pictures :)

I thought I would post some pics of our goings on here in India.  We have seen and done so much, I couldn't possibly write about it all!  I hope you enjoy them :)

Observing daily Hindu prayer at our friends house in Khanna.

          We were lucky enough to stay with Mr Randwahan and his family leading up to the wedding.

A child flying a kite during the annual Kite Festival in Khanna.

On this day the sky was FULL of kites!  The next day the trees were FULL of kites :)

A large quantity of Ganja, growing on the side of the road in Khanna. 

 It grows like weeds here (no pun intended ) 

Our friends hitching a ride in the hot afternoon sun. 

We spent the afternoon munching on sugar cane right out of the fields!

The Rock Garden in Chandigarh.  This was one man's whimsical use of garbage.

 A interesting afternoon indeed!

Me, Monty and Dan at the Lotus Temple in New Delhi.  This was a Baha'i temple for silent worship.

Dan, chilling at the marvelous Taj Mahal!  Lovely in so many ways!!

Dan, trying to shop for shoes in a bazaar in New Delhi.  Wow- thanks Monty :)

A light snack in Jaipur :)  Yeah, that 'American club house' has half a loaf of bread.

A birds eye view from the Hawa Mahal 'The Wind Palace' of traffic in the walled city in Jaipur.

"You're Going to India for How Long...?"

Today was a day indeed.
When we first outlined our ‘itinerary’ we decided that we would spend around 3 months in India.  We shared this idea with friends back home, as well as locals here that we chatted to along the way.  Almost always the response was the same- either that of surprise(from locals) or doubt from the people back home.  Their words are starting to ring true, they repeat over and over in my head ‘if you can make it that long!’
I don’t know I am just in a mood or if the words of seasoned travellers ring true.  Is India losing it’s majesty?  I am noticing my patience wearing thin, the experiences that were just that, experiences, are starting to test my patience.  I am longing for different scenery.  This has just happened over that past few days and I hope it passes because India is an amazing country and I would hate to cut my time short simply because I am grumpy.  Let me give you an example of an experience that in hindsight wasn’t all that bad and could have been much worse but regardless, it is a perfect example of the daily life of the backpacker here in India.
After spending a few days in the beautiful city of Jaipur (the pink city) we decided to move along to our next destination.  After doing some reading, we were enticed by the possibility of seeing Bengal Tigers in their natural habitat, also a safari would offer a much needed change of scenery.  We looked into booking a train ticket for the short 2 hour journey to Ranthambhore a few days in advance, which is all you really need here.  We were met by the same Indian attitude when we asked for help with the train reservation.  We were told not to worry, we didn’t need a ticket and just to bloody jump on!!  Um- no, not my style, so instead we went to the train station to make a reservation.
Ha, right!  There is only one train going to our destination daily and all the tickets were booked up.  Our wicket employee sold us a wait list ticket and just told us to board the train as usual.  We were # 58 and 59 on the wait list-lovely.
So, we showed up today to get on the train.  It had made a few stops before ours and was already packed to the brim.  Picture the Indian trains you see on T.V.  You know the ones, where the people literally hang out the doors and balance between the cars.  Yeah, that was our train!  So we pushed our way through, luggage and all and managed to find a seat.  Well, in all honesty, we didn’t find it, because we are white tourists someone gave theirs up for us.  So we sat, thank god for only 2 hours, the two of us, smooshed onto one seat.
I really wanted to take a picture to post but I always feel somewhat uncomfortable taking photos of day to day situations.  It makes me feel rather high and mighty, so I refrained.  That didn’t stop others from taking them of me.   Staring, and staring, and staring in close proximity for hours.  There were literally people in every nook and cranny, squating on the ground or standing.  Two weeks ago I would have found this experience interesting, a great opportunity to live like another person, in another life.  Today, it just pissed me off!!
So, on a positive note, we arrived in Sawai Madhopur safe and sound.  We found a grummy hotel to spend the night, so at least we have a roof over our heads.  Tomorrow at 5:30 am, we will be ready to see tigers and hopefully have an experience of a lifetime.  Now lets just hope we can catch a train outta here tomorrow night!!

I don’t have any pictures of this particular train ride but I do have one of the  awesome, empty, beautiful ride from Delhi to Jaipur.

My Weakness

Mmmm, the luxuries of home.
Yes, I’m guilty….I bought some vino tonight.  I can say that it cost more than anything we have bought here so far but it was worth it.  I can’t recall ever buying wine from India- and I don’t think I would when given the option but mmmm it hit the spot.  A little cab sauv with a couple salty gobi (cauliflower) parantha and you have a perfectly good snack after a long day of fort hopping.
It did remind me of home a little too much though.   I miss a nice Monday afternoon meander through the liquor store picking out the perfect bottle of red to enjoy later in the evening, with a movie and some yummy eats. 
Yes, I was reminded of home while I sipped my lovely, full bodied, liquid heaven but what can I say, the change of scenery was refreshing indeed.  A white stone terrace, overlooking a garden in the dark of the night, a refreshing evening breeze, cooling our skin after a long day of forts, bazaars and endless traffic; heaven.  Not to mention, the cutie geckos scaling the walls, snacking on the mosquitoes that threaten to ruin my lovely evening- ha, they make me giggle :)  Possibly the wine though.
I finish my evening with a chug of cough meds, to remedy my overworked, clean-air loving lungs and tuck myself into bed at a decent time- for my love of wine has made me sleepy indeed.
Cheers!

What is that Smell?

 

It’s happening- Dan and I are turning into backpackers.

I had a vision of myself and of what I would be like while I travelled the world.  I knew that I didn’t want to dress as I would normally, back home in Canada, nor did I want to totally dress as a local either.  I find it kinda weird, it looks silly when you’re white and dress like a Indian, in Indian clothing.  I am reminded of what my brother used to call me- ‘ a poser’- thanks Nolan.  That has stuck with me forever- bully.  Aside from that, I didn’t want to be a backpacker either.  No flowy cotton skirts or baggy pants with crotches that fall to your knees.  It’s tempting though, I found myself looking and pining for the wrinkly, shapeless clothing of the gypsy.  Well, it happened today- I succumbed to my temptation and bought a long, long flowy skirt in a floral, bright orange and red pattern.  Now before you judge remember, it can be made into a dress :) right, right, I know, how could I resist?  Multi purpose is what the backpacker is all about.  At $3, how could I say no?

So there you go, the realization came to me today in full force.  When you wear flowy hippy clothes and wear your undies twice, once the right way and once inside out, you have turned.  You lose a sense of hygiene that you would normally have back home.  A shower is something you only have every other day or so and bathroom conversion is how you meet new friends :)  Back home in Canada you wouldn’t have a cup of chai over a stimulating story of the hunt for a toilet.  Here, it’s not only hilarious but a great bonding experience.

So, I feel I am a FAR cry from dread locks but when Dan says “what’s that smell” and the first thing we do is smell each other, we are reminded just how far we’ve come, both figuratively and literally.  I love it!

Dr. Jones You Have Nothing On Me

OK, seriously, I don’t know how many times I can say it so you believe me- India is awesome!  I have quite the imagination and here it goes wild and I love it.  I can get lost in daydreams with fantastic colours, smells, temples, exotic animals and beautiful sunshine.  It’s crazy though because my daydreams are almost a reality.  Sunbathing at the Taj, exploring a temple with monkeys like Indian Jones, or wandering through an Indian style house like in The Little Princess.  MMMM India, you are so full of dreams and harsh realities, it makes my heart smile.
 
The Taj Mahal is all it is said to be and more.  I was so excited to see this famous monument but when I got there I lost it.  When you walk through the main gate you are greeted by one of the most awe inspiring, breathtaking views in the world.  The Taj Mahal stands, in all it glory, in the Indian sun, massive and sparkly white- it is magnificent!  Ah, I don’t have words to describe it’s beauty and scale, it truly is a marvel.  The grounds are massive, containing gardens with old growth trees, fountains and flowers.  The Taj itself is very well preserved and for this reason visitors are required to wear shoe covers when entering.  The marble work is something to see, with intricate floral designs, geometric patterns and Islamic text covering the walls, the whole building is beautifully and tastefully decorated.  I sat, with Dan beside me soaking in the sun while I pictured the empire in it’s glory and what can I say- I can’t think of any other way I would want to spend my afternoon.  Taj Mahal- you are glorious indeed.
 


Next, we paid a visit to the Agra Fort- yes!, it was also AMAZING.  Ah, I felt like Indiana Jones, wandering through cool, dark hallways of red sandstone searching for a hidden treasure. My daydream was complete with monkeys scaling the walls, snakes and spiders lurking in dark shadows…..OK, there weren’t any snakes, and if there were spiders I didn’t see them but monkeys, there were.  Yeah, monkeys.  Now, I was fully expecting to see monkeys while in India but not at temples in the middle of the city!!  It was so awesome- monkeys are so awesome and I got to see them, climbing up beautiful red walls and sitting atop ancient terraces .  It was brilliant. The fort itself was MASSIVE- MASSIVE.  Only 30% is open to visitors, the rest is closed for military use and it still took us a couple hours to wander through.

History, food, and a Temple made of Gold

Wow, India is AMAZING! 

I was really hoping I would be able to express all that we are doing out here for our followers back home and elsewhere but now I realize that will be impossible.  We are seeing and learning so much everyday.  India has surprised me in so many ways, I cannot begin to explain!  I have been meaning to do a post on our trip through Punjab, after we left the village of Khanna, that was almost a week ago and I have yet to do it.  So, this is my compromise- a short picture story of the sights we saw, as they cannot be missed and are completely worthy of a visit. 

On our first trip we ventured by bus to the city of Amritsar to visit the Golden Temple!  As the name suggests, it is a temple built ‘ entirely of GOLD’-almost :)  It is where the Sikh religion was founded and was a very spiritual place indeed (also home to the oldest surviving copies of the Sikh bible if memory serves me correctly)  We bunked up for a few days at a tourist hotel right close to the Temple grounds, and the cost was astounding, only 150 rupees each per night!!  The cost is kept to a minimum so all can have the opportunity to worship at this holy temple.  Something to mention- the Sikh religion believes in giving to everyone who is in need and that all are equal.  So in true Sikh fashion, the temple serves food to thousands, ‘round the clock and at no cost.  The meals are prepared, cooked and served by volunteers.  We ate there the entire time while staying in the city, each meal getting our plate, bowl and utensil on the way into the main hall where everyone from all castes and religions sits on the floor in rows together… This scene of labourers and beggars sitting alongside holy men and business men eating together in solidarity is a very humbling experience.

 While in Amritsar we also visited the Jallianwala Bagh , a memorial garden which was the scene of a brutal massacre by the British 1919 (follow the link for more info – grab a tissue).  India has a very long and sometimes sad history- especially most recently while under British occupation.   The monument and sight marks the spot where the British fired more than one thousand rounds, in an unprovoked attack, which killed more than 400 people, including women and children.  It is an awful memory but the government has kept the sight very beautiful to honour the memory of the people who died there.

 On a happier note, we did also take a trip out to the Pakistan/India border for the border closing celebrations.  I can say that this was one of the strangest ceremonies I have ever seen - ever.  Every day, hundreds of people make the trip to witness the 1 1/2 hour ceremony, which includes cheering, chanting (lead by a male “cheerleader” of sorts) dancing and music.  Bizarre.  We had a really good time and even though it was completely over the top(as most things are here) and unnecessary, it was fun and I guess that is the point at the end of the day.  Have Fun :)

Tonight at Dinner

Dinner was an interesting experience this evening.  Dan and I went to a small eatery on the outskirts of the Grand Bazaar in Delhi for the second time because last night was tasty, cheap and our service was quick and honest.  Tonight, that wasn't the case.

We have done some travelling before and have noticed that in many cities restaurants have people outside trying to 'entice' you to eat there.  They bring you in and if you stay they will receive a small commission.  We decided to eat at this restaurant on our own and after talking with the guy outside, he brought us up and seated us upstairs, where we were all alone.  He took our simple order and left.  We decided to move downstairs as we like the company and chit chat of the locals.  Then our order came and it was WAY more than we had asked for.  Luckily, we have done this before and were on the ball enough to stop him in his tracks.  I was annoyed and needless to say we weren't going to pay any extra for what we had not ordered.  On top of the fact that I was sick and miserable, my dinner was also ruined  :(

Then something happened to lift my spirits!  A lovely Sikh gentlemen was sitting alone at the table next to us.  He had said hello but because of my crappy mood and state of health, I didn't feel like talking much.  While Dan and I ate our meals, we noticed a beggar walk by.  The gentleman waved him in, asked him to sit down and join him for dinner.  The service men where not impressed, for obvious reasons but where firmly told that the beggar was his guest and to bring him some food!  The gratitude on the mans face was priceless.

After our dinner we took the time to chat with the gentleman and unfortunately we did not get his name.  He was residing in Australia but back home to see his family in India for three months.  I was very happy to have taken the time to talk to him as he made my night.  After feeling down right crappy all day and being super annoyed with my evening, I was still reminded of the beauty of humanity.  It is all around and you have many, many opportunities to see it if you take the time to look and notice.

Love, Love, Love is all you need!

A Nice Memory

Awe :(  I was on the bus the other day, listening to my IPod.  One of my favourite songs came on and it has been stuck in my head ever since.  It reminds me of home for lots of reasons. I thought that if I shared it on my blog maybe it would get OUTTA my head, 'cause it is making me Super homesick!! 

Enjoy it :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjFaenf1T-Y

My New Game

I thought I would take the time to tell everyone about my game that Dan and I play in India.
First a little back story......

When we finally landed in India, after a long, long, long journey, we left the terminal to look for our driver.
Thankfully, he was there to pick us up but only after a little looking and a little freaking out did we actually find him ;)  Then we drove, through Delhi on our way to the city of Khanna where we would be staying for the next few weeks.

Delhi was CRAZY!!  We only drove through it but it was absolulty shocking to see.  Yes, we were just off the plane, tired and excited but I saw so much in that 45 minute stretch out of the city.  I saw poor people and I mean poor, not Canada poor but India poor.  I saw mothers begging with small children, crippled men just trying to get by.  Cows, in the middle of the street and dogs- everywhere!  After witnessing all that there was one thing that I saw the most of- which brings me to the story of my game....

I saw men peeing- everywhere.  I made a comment to Dan that I had seen more men peeing in 10 minutes than I had in my whole life in Canada.  EEEWWWW!!!!!  Seriously, they pee everywhere.  There is a level of decency, in that they do at least turn their back to the street but really- gross.
So, I made my game.  It follows the same rules a 'punch buggy', if you are familiar with the game.  If you are then I assume you understand the difference.  It was all fun and games on the first day.  Now- not so much.  Your sleeping on the bus- punch.  Relaxing in a car, enjoying the drive- punch.  This I think could get outta control fast!

I do have to mention that we were on a bus yesterday, making our way back to Khanna from The Golden Temple, when Dan puched me three times in a row.  Agh- I asked if it was a outdoor urinal that I had missed(yes, they have those here) and he said NO.  It was a toddler, on the side of the road, doing his business.  I won't go into details but Dan felt that it deserved three punches, not just one.  Ha Ha- Sick!

The Wedding: Day 4

 Ah, finally the last day of the wedding celebrations.  The day that Jazz and Simer tie the knot!

This day took both of us by surprise, as it was really rather simple- short and sweet.  It all began with a early morning wake-up.  All the guests had to rise, wash and be in their finest attire by 6:45am!  The ceremony took place at Temple, so to have the most intimate ceremony possible, the earlier the better, as the Temple is a place of worship and open to the public.

We made our way, dressed up and freezing towards the Temple.  The grounds were covered in fog that day, so it made for quite the eerie and somewhat creepy scene.  After we washed both our hands and feet (a requirment before entering) the men and women went their seperate ways.  Both sexes had their own staircase to climb and side to sit while watching the ceremony.  Women on the left and men on the right.  Simer sat, dressing in a red beaded suit, back to the crowd, facing the alter, waiting for Jazz.  Then he arrived!!  He made his way down the aisle, dressed in white with a red turbon, his family behind him.  He took a seat next to Simer- now this is when it got confusing.

Songs were sung, in Punjabi of course, so nothing was understood by Dan or myself.  We just sat there and listened.  I really have nothing to say about the actual ceremony, as we followed absolultey none of it.  Actually, that's not entirely true.  There is a point, amongst the singing and chanting that Jazz and Simer get up.  Simer holds onto a red sash that is draped across Jazzy's shoulder, and with Jazz leading the way, they make their way around the alter.  Only after four rounds have been made are they officially married.  They went around four times (although not in a row - there were songs and prayers between each round), I witnessed it and I understood, so that's something.  Something else I observed was Dan, nodding off- maybe two or three times :)  Also, that I am not in elementary school anymore and I lack the ability to sit cross legged on a marble floor for an undetermined amount of time.

So, that was that.  Simer and Jazz are married.  Congrats you two- We love you !!!

Side note: Due to lack of sleep and general drowsiness, we forgot our cameras and so we don't have any pictures of the ceremony. You'll have to use your imagination :)

The Wedding: Day 3

  The third day of the 4 day wedding celebration was action packed indeed.  Dan and I learned a lot that day, as we have kinda just been floating through the wedding process completely clueless.
Now, I'm not gonna lie- I did have to google the names of all the ceremonies- there were so many on the third day and we couldn't keep the names straight :)  Also, this post is coming from a white girl, who has little to no idea what the meaning was behind anything that happened on Day 3- research if you like 'cause I'm just gonna write what I remember.

  There were plenty of people around for Day 1-2 but on day three, everyone came.  It was mostly just a jammble of ladies, men, children and in my opinion, way too many photographers and videographers- do Jazz and Simer really wanna see footage of Dan and I eating or staring off into space, lost and confused?
NO- they don't!

  The night began with a ceremony called 'Vatna'?.  All the guests assembled into the courtyard, Simmer sitting on a cloth, draped under a red scarf.   Dan and I just stood there, alongside the photographers as members of Simer's family smeared a brownish paste on Simer' hands and feet.  I guess it's a purification process- regardless, it was emotional and intimate.  As always, the photographers were there, snapping picture after picture, after picture.

  After Simer bathed, the second ceremony of the evening began. All the guests filed into the sitting room of the house, all the lights were turned off and the room was lit only with candles. Unfortunatly, I wasn't present as I went on a beer run- I'm a classy lady you know :)  A part of me is glad I wasn't there, as this ceremony in paticular was apparently very emotional for all that witnessed it.  Tears flowed as Simer received the buttermilk soaked bangles in the traditional 'Choora Ceremony'.  The bride is given a a series of red and white beaded bracelets that she is to wear for the ceremony the next day and for an additional 11 or 21 days following- it is her choice how long she wishes to wear them.

  The final ceremony of the evening was called the 'Ladies Sangeet" but contrary to the name- all who chose to participate in this event can do so.  We all took our place at the entrance gates to the property, ready to dance.  About 50 of us took to the streets, following the 'Jaggo'  which is a oversized crown like hat, electronicly lite with colouful lights. The crown would be passed from women to women to carry thoughout the celebration.  Two professional drum players accompanied us with double sided drums, they lead the guests in a sing-along of traditional Indian songs.  We went from house to house to sing and dance in their courtyards, and pretty much make an all around ruckus!!  The dance party carried on for a couple of hours as we made our way through to the neighbouring houses.  This was by far the most carefree, and fun celebration in the whole wedding process.  A note that I do have to make though.... walking through the alleyways and streets of India in the pitch dark of night is a great way to step in something unmentionable- or just simply into a large pothole!!

  Once we arrived home, we were welcomed by a CRAZY, Indian style firework show!!  By Indian style, I mean a box of fireworks, placed in the middle of the street!  It was AWESOME!! but a little scary, as some of them misfired, going off two feet from the ground- SCARY.  Now, keep in mind- Simer had a simple wedding- simple.  I guess hundreds of fireworks are simple ;)  My mind was blown at the sight!

  Then, in true Indian party fashion, we danced- for hours.  The party carried on till 2!  The drinks and food came out and we danced, and danced, and danced!!  I have come to realise that Dan and I aren't cut out to party this hard.  I think we ended up in bed at 1.  What can I say, my legs just wouldn't work anymore ;)

  (You may notice I'm wearing a different suit in this picture... This is the suit I wore to the ring ceremony, and after people began to arrive, and they noticed that I was wearing the same suite twice <gasp> one of them made arrangements to have a replacement suit brought by her sister, the heart-adorned suit that you see in the other picture. Not quite my favorite pattern, but a nice gesture!)

The Wedding: Day 2

The second day of the 4-day wedding celebration was the Mehndi ceremony. I feel strange writing this post as it was the day that I participated the least in. This day is mainly for the ladies.

The celebration began in the evening with the arrival of two gentleman who sat inside and immediately went to work mixing a thick, brown, pudding-like concoction in two steel buckets. The women all gathered in the main room of the bride's parents house (whom we've had the pleasure of staying with for the past 2 weeks) and chairs were brought in from all over the house and yard to accommodate all the bodies. Having completed the brewing of the brown paste (Mehndi, or Henna), the young men scooped it into plastic cones (think of decorating a cake with frosting) and asked for the first woman to step forward.

Elise was unanimously volunteered to go first. With a nervous smile to me she sat in the chair between the two and placed her arms face-up on their knees. Each took a mehndi-filled cone and went to work. The speed at which art formed on her hands was amazing - these two were definitely well-practised and skilled in their art! They started at her wrists and within 10 minutes had covered 95% of the skin on her palms to her finger-tips in intricate designs of thick brown goo. They turned her hands over and drew larger, more deliberate designs on the backs of her hands, and a total of 20 minutes later, she was done.

This process was repeated over and over with all the women involved in the wedding, from immediate family, to aunts, cousins, grandmothers, and any other ladies who happened to be around who wanted some henna done. It was shortly after Elise finished that I asked her how long it would take to dry. As it turns out, the process had only just begun. She was instructed to sit with her hands in the air, and informed that she would be in this posture for 2 hours. The look of panic and disapointment on her face was evident as some of the men called me to drink with them on the roof, and being a good husband, I gave her a reassuring kiss on the forehead before abandoning her for the Shirab (whisky).

The finer details of the next four hours can be found in a previous blog post, Once Upon a Toilet but one thing that was omitted from that humorous tale was my own Mehndi tattoo. Feeling a little bad that I left Elise to go drink and party with the men, and that she had to swallow her pride and have me take care of her every need, I obliged to getting a tattoo of my own done.

Elise's experience was nothing compared to the bride's, however. She was the last to get her artwork done, it started close to her elbows and went all the way to her fingertips, and then she had her feet and ankles done as well. It was close to midnight by the time her mehndi was done, and she had to wrap her hands and feet in garbage bags so she could go to sleep.  All this in preparation for Day 3- The Block Party!

posted by Dan

The Wedding: Day 1

  Our first stop on our 'round the world tour wasn't always going to be India.  We had chosen South East Asia, for it's easy going tourist circuit.  Our plans quickly changed when we heard news of our good friend Jazz's marriage.  It was an easy choice to make- South East Asia second- first India for the amazing, once in a lifetime opportunity to attend an authentic Indian wedding!!!

  As a few of you may know, Indian weddings are nothing like the ones back home in Canada- they are a four day event, with lots of traditions, food and parties.  The first ceremony is called a ring ceremony.  As it is much like the western tradition of ring exchange between husband and wife, here in India it doesn't quite hold the same meaning.

  Now, we have heard over and over that Simer and Jazz' wedding was a simple affair by Indian standards- as far as Dan and I are concerned it was the exact opposite.  The preparations started a few days before- the decorations had to go up!  We had spent the past few days at a family friends home- upon our return we were awe struck at the expanse of the decorations.  The yard was tented with vibrant red and gold to protect the guests from the Indian sun, lines of chairs for them to sit and a stage for the guests of honour.

  As the guests filtered in(about 100) we started to enjoy the amazing spread of Indian cuisine paired with various drink.  Yum, Yum, Yum- this is one of my  favourite things about India!!!  I know in three months you will be able to tell from the extra 15 pounds I'm beginning to put on :( but that's not the point.

  When we got word of Jazzy's arrival the ladies set up a barracade at the door.  Only after Jazz barters a fair price for Simers hand will he be able to cut the red ribbon that separates and prevents him from entering the grounds :)  Yeah ladies- also a great tradition.  I'm not sure as I don't speak Punjabi but I am thinking that Jazz was too chicken to follow this tradition (sorry Jazz!).

 
  After all the guests took their seats Simer came out, dressed in a beautiful pink suit (a traditional Indian outfit) and made her way to the stage with the ladies of her family by her side.  Now I have to give them props for sitting on a stage in front of so many people, Jazzy on 3 hours of sleep- just sitting there.  The ring ceremony itself was just that, an exchange of rings.  It didn't have the same result as a western ceremony as the wedding traditions carry out over three more days until it is official.   Then they sit- for picture, after picture, after picture.  On the upside, every family gives the bride and groom each a gift, usually cash.  Can I say, Jazz's sack was HUGE!- with cash of course ;)


  Thats that.  The grooms family then leaves for his own private ceremonies and traditions and the ladies' side PARTIES- and hard.  The alcohol was flowing-mostly whiskey, and the music was so loud it was like an outdoor night club.  You dance-from 3pm till 12am!!  Now that's a good way to digest your lunch :)